There are few places in the world where you can ski one day and go whale watching the next — and even spot orcas and bears in the wild. In British Columbia, you can do it all. We went on a family ski holiday to Whistler, followed by a road trip across Vancouver Island. A journey full of contrasts that offered both literal and figurative highs. British Columbia is breathtaking and wonderfully diverse — especially in spring.
Vancouver
When you have young children, you’re tied to the school holidays. Skiing in Europe means crowded slopes and high prices during Christmas or spring break. We discovered that dureing the Dutch May school break, we could combine skiing with a road trip in British Columbia— the perfect mix of mountains and sea, winter and spring, city and wilderness, action and relaxation. We started and ended our 2.5-week trip in Vancouver. KLM offers a direct 9.5-hour flight from Amsterdam to this laid-back city. We explored Stanley Park with its famous totem poles, admired the cherry blossoms and took playful photos with the laughing statues in Morton Park. Just outside the city, we wobbled across the Capilano Suspension Bridge, swaying 70 metres above a deep rainforest canyon.
Sea to Sky Highway
We followed the Sea to Sky Highway towards Whistler — one of the most scenic drives in Canada. You could do it in two hours, but we took our time, stopping at viewpoints, waterfalls, and charming small towns along the way. The Sea to Sky Gondola, which rises to 885 metres, offers spectacular mountain views and a dramatic suspension bridge. Just before Whistler, we hiked the Train Wreck Trail. After a short search through lush forest, we found the wreckage of an old freight train scattered among the trees. The rusting metal, colourful graffiti, and green rainforest makes it a perfect spot for photos. As we entered Whistler, we spotted a small group of black bears grazing on the golf course — our first wildlife encounter. We stayed in a cozy mountain lodge and watched the ski slopes from the warmth of the heated outdoor pool.
Whistler
Whistler is a charming alpine village, blending European flair, Canadian friendliness, and stunning nature. The 2010 Winter Olympics took place here — and for good reason. The area is vast, modern and snow-sure from November to May. Skiing takes place on two connected mountains: Whistler Mountain and Blackcomb Mountain, linked by the spectacular Peak2Peak Gondola. Together, they offer more than 200 runs. Lift tickets aren’t cheap (about $200 a day), but the Epic Season Pass is a smart option if you plan to ski multiple days. This pass gives you unlimited access to several world-class resorts across multiple countries. Just make sure to buy early, as prices rise and the pass is no longer available after November. Before our trip, I’d seen those scary online YouTube videos of bears chasing skiers. Technically, it can happen — bears wake from hibernation in April — but it’s extremely rare. This was definitely not the kind of wildlife encounter we were hoping for, and fortunately, it didn’t happen!
Vancouver Island
After a wonderful week of skiing, we took the scenic drive back to the coast and boarded the ferry to Nanaimo. The crossing offers panoramic views and we even spotted porpoises along the way. Vancouver Island turned out to be much larger and more diverse than we imagined. Our eight days were far too short to explore it all. We walked among 800-year-old Douglas firs in Cathedral Grove, climbed rocks at Wally Creek, searched for sea creatures on wide beaches at low tide, hiked the Rainforest Trails, explored the historic centre of Victoria, kayaked among sea otters, admired the murals in Chemainus, wandered along the houseboats at Maple Bay Marina, crossed the province’s oldest wooden bridge in Cobble Hill, shopped and enjoyed great food.
Highlights were the Bear Watch Tour and a trip to Hot Springs Cove from Tofino. We saw breaching whales, black bears foraging along the riverbanks, sea otters with their pups, and even stood beneath a natural hot waterfall.
Black Bears
More than 7,000 black bears live on Vancouver Island. After hibernation, they scour the rivers and beaches in search of crabs, clams, and seaweed. We saw several bears from our boat — a perfect way to observe these impressive animals safely and peacefully.
The best time to see them is early in the morning and at low tide. Grizzly bears don’t live on the island, but from mid-May onward, day tours by boat or floatplane depart for the mainland, where grizzlies hunt for salmon and shellfish.
Orca Safari
Vancouver Island offers another bucket-list experience: the orca safari. Three populations of killer whales live in the surrounding waters:
- Resident Orcas: Found along the east coast between Victoria and Telegraph Cove, most visible between June and September when salmon migrate. The Southern Residents are endangered — only 73 individuals were recorded in 2024 — while around 300 Northern Residents live further north.
- Bigg’s (Transient) Orcas: True hunters that roam widely, feeding on seals, sea lions, and sometimes small whales. They can be spotted year-round, even in April and May.
- Offshore Orcas: Living far out at sea, they hunt sharks and large fish and are rarely seen by tourists.
American waters
In spring, the best place to see orcas is Victoria, the capital of British Columbia. Tours sail between Vancouver Island and the San Juan Islands, partly through American waters. We chose a RIB boat — fast, stable, and adventurous, with a small group and less chance of seasickness. Many companies offer a whale-sighting guarantee — if you don’t see whales, you can join another trip for free. On our first tour, we weren’t lucky, but the next day we joined again and saw several pods of orcas swimming together - an unforgettable experience! On both tours we spotted porpoises, seals, sea lions, otters and bald eagles.
Best Time to Visit
Is spring in British Columbia a good idea? Definitely. We visited Whistler in late April, some runs stay open until early May. While we didn’t get the famous powder snow, the mornings still offered great conditions, and we often had the slopes to ourselves. Some runs closed as the week went on, but there was still plenty of great skiing left. In the valley, we enjoyed sunny terrace lunches. You can also swap your skis for a mountain bike or e-bike and explore the Whistler Valley Trail. Whistler promotes this time as its “Ski & Bike Season” — one of the few places in the world where you can do both in a single day.
Low Season, High Rewards
Spring is when Vancouver Island truly blooms. The rainforests glow a vibrant green, flowers burst into color and the days grow longer. The weather can be unpredictable - our waterproof ski jackets came in handy. April and May are the best months for whale watching from Tofino or Ucluelet, as gray whales and humpbacks migrate from Mexico to Alaska. We even saw whales from the shore. It’s also the best season for black bear sightings. The low season has plenty of advantages: more accommodation choices, lower prices, and quiet roads and parks. We were too early for the grizzly tours, which start in mid-May — just one of the many reasons I’d love to return to British Columbia: a place where skiing and safari take on a whole new meaning, and nature surprises you at every turn.
